A fairytale town beneath the cliffs
When the rain poured down in Nerja on March 9th, Martin and I decided to take a small excursion to a place that has long been on our "to-visit" list – the spectacular town of Setenil de las Bodegas. It was a spontaneous road trip that turned out to be absolutely magical.
Calle Cuevas de la Sombra
A town built into the rock
Setenil de las Bodegas is one of Andalusia's most unique and fascinating villages. Unlike other white villages in the region, where houses often climb along mountain slopes, Setenil has developed under and within the cliffs. For centuries, its residents have adapted their homes, shops, and restaurants to the natural rock formations. The streets are lined with houses where the roofs are massive rock formations, creating an almost fairytale-like atmosphere.
The History behind Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil has a long and fascinating history. The town is believed to have been inhabited since prehistoric times, but it became particularly significant during the Moorish rule in Spain. The name "Setenil" comes from the Latin "septem nihil" ("seven times nothing") and is said to refer to the seven failed attempts by the Christians to conquer the town during the 15th century, before it was finally captured in 1484.
The name "Bodegas" was added later and refers to the many wine cellars that once existed in the town's caves. Setenil was an important wine producer, and even today, you can find excellent local wines and delicacies from the area.
Our experience – lunch under the cliffs
When we arrived after a beautiful drive through the Andalusian countryside, the rain had just stopped, and we were able to stroll around the charming town. The narrow alleys and whitewashed houses, which almost merged with the mountain, created an incredible atmosphere. We stopped at a restaurant where the tables were placed directly under the rock canopy – one of the most unique dining experiences we've ever had! Sitting there, protected by the massive cliff above us, and enjoying a quiet lunch was truly a memorable experience.
We've grown fond of Spanish cuisine, but there are other dishes to try if you don't particularly like "Pulpo". Martin had tuna, and it was very good too. I like my Pata de Pulpo quite well-grilled. This one was delicious at the very end of the "tail" where the skin was crispy, but I peeled off the rest and only ate the meat inside – yummy with mashed potatoes and mayonnaise.
What not to miss in Setenil de las Bodegas
If you plan to visit Setenil de las Bodegas, here are some things you shouldn't miss:
-
Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra – the town's most iconic streets, where the houses are literally built into the cliffs.
-
Castillo de Setenil – an old Moorish castle with fantastic views over the town and the valley.
-
Local delicacies – try the olive oil with a little salt and dip bread in it (!). We bought some to take home. They also have fantastic olives and sweets.
-
Viewpoints – several miradores (viewpoints) around the town offer breathtaking views. We visited Mirador del Carmen. So beautiful!
View from Mirador del Carmen
Mirador del Carmen
The river flowing through Setenil de las Bodegas is called Río Trejo. It has created the unique rock formations.
The Jesus statue in Setenil de las Bodegas is called "Sagrado Corazón de Jesús," at Mirador del Carmen.
One of the streets of Setenil de las Bodegas
The Mirador del Carmen viewpoint, from below
The river flowing through Setenil de las Bodegas is called Río Trejo
A perfect day trip from Nerja
Roadtrip to Setenil de las Bodegas 1
Road trip to Setenil de las Bodegas 2
Road trip to Setenil de las Bodegas 3
Setenil de las Bodegas is approximately two hours from Nerja and makes for a perfect day trip for anyone looking for something a bit different. I get carsick quite easily, so I don't usually look forward to the journey to mountain villages with winding roads (like to Ronda, for example). But the road to Setenil wasn't nearly as winding; I didn't get carsick even once.
Walking through this small town, feeling the echoes of history, and enjoying its unique architecture is something truly recommended.
Have you visited Setenil de las Bodegas yourself? Feel free to share your experiences in the comments!