A fairytale city under cliffs
As the rain poured down on Nerja on March 9th, Martin and I decided to take a little trip to a place that had long been on our "to-visit" list – the spectacular town of Setenil de las Bodegas . It was a spontaneous road trip that turned out to be absolutely magical.
A city built into the mountain
Setenil de las Bodegas is one of Andalusia’s most unique and fascinating villages. Unlike other white villages in the region, where houses often climb up the hillsides, Setenil has developed under and inside the cliffs. For centuries, residents have adapted their homes, shops and restaurants to the natural rock formations. The streets are lined with houses whose roofs are actually massive blocks of stone, creating an almost fairytale-like feel.
The story behind Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil has a long and fascinating history. The town is believed to have been inhabited since prehistoric times, but it became particularly important during the Moorish rule of Spain. The name "Setenil" comes from the Latin "septem nihil" ("seven times nothing") and is said to refer to the seven unsuccessful attempts that the Christians made to take the town during the 15th century, before it was finally conquered in 1484.
The name "Bodegas" was added later and refers to the many wine cellars that once existed in the town's caves. Setenil was an important wine producer, and even today you can find excellent local wines and delicacies from the area.
Our experience – a lunch under the cliffs
When we arrived after a beautiful drive through the Andalusian countryside, the rain had just stopped, and we were able to walk around the charming town. The narrow alleys and whitewashed houses that almost merged with the mountain created an incredible atmosphere. We stopped at a restaurant where the tables were placed directly under the cliff roof – one of the most unique restaurant experiences we have had! Sitting there, protected by the massive cliff above us, and enjoying a lunch in the tranquility was truly a memorable experience.
We have become fond of Spanish cuisine, but there are other dishes to try if you don't like "Pulpo", Martin had tuna and it was very good too. I like to eat Pata de Pulpo grilled quite hard. This was very tasty at the end of the "tail" where the skin was crispy, but I peeled the rest and only ate the meat on the inside - yummy with mashed potatoes and mayonnaise.
What not to miss in Setenil de las Bodegas
If you are planning to visit Setenil de las Bodegas, here are some things you shouldn't miss:
Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra – the city's most iconic streets, where the houses are literally built into the rocks.
Castillo de Setenil – an old Moorish castle with fantastic views of the town and the valley.
Local delicacies – try the olive oil with a little salt and dip bread in it (!). We bought some with us. They also have amazing olives and sweets.
Viewpoints – several miradores (viewpoints) around the city offer breathtaking views. We were up at Mirador del Carmen. So beautiful!
A perfect day trip from Nerja
Setenil de las Bodegas is about two hours from Nerja and is a perfect day trip for those who want to experience something different. I get motion sick quite easily, so I don't usually look forward to traveling to mountain villages with winding roads (like Ronda). But the road to Setenil wasn't that winding at all, I didn't get motion sick once.
Wandering through this small town, feeling the wings of history and enjoying its unique architecture is something that is highly recommended.
Have you visited Setenil de las Bodegas yourself? Please share your experiences in the comments!
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